The 10 Step Korean Skin Care Program (That I Learned at 35)
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Hi gorgeous. You came here to hear about some serious skin care, so let’s get to it.
When I went to Korea at 35, I had already heard about the cult following Korean skin care had. Then I walked into a drug store and saw the product selection.
Yes, now any CVS in the US carries sheet masks, but this was a) before that was common, and b) on a whole different level.
I started doing some research and found that there was a fully developed program here. There are 10 official steps to Korean skin care, and I will outline it for you. A couple of things to note:
I am outlining the regime for you so that you can explore on your own based on your own skin type. I am including my personal favorites in case you need a starting point though.
It is recommended that you do this both in the morning and at night. I do not. Why would you use sunscreen at night, and aren’t you using a different eye cream and moisturizer at night??
I also do not do this entire program every day. Sheet masks are a once/twice per week occurrence for me that is a whole experience. It’s my spa night.
If you have heard about this Korean skin care regimen and the accolades behind it but want to know more, you have come to the right place.
Here I will walk you through it and explain the benefits of each step so that you can decide whether it is important for your skin on a daily or weekly basis. So without further ado, let’s get to the program.
Oil-based cleanser.
Even if you have oily skin, this is good for you.
The point of the oil-based cleanser is that it breaks down makeup, sunscreen, and other gunky stuff. It is the first layer of skin nutrition.
Personally, as a lady over 40 with dry, sensitive skin, this is a welcome part of my routine because of how nourishing it is.
Side note: this particular product is one of my all-time favorites and continues to be the foundation of my skin care routine. I love the company’s products and have been using three of them daily for years now.
Water-based cleanser.
After you removed makeup and sunscreen, this removes the added gunk like dirt (yes I’ve now said “gunk” twice and regret nothing).
Essentially this breaks down the extra stuff that hasn’t already been removed.
As I’ve said, I have dry, sensitive skin. However, washing my face twice doesn’t dry it out but rather nourishes it. This is why choosing the proper products is important, and these just work for my skin. This double washing removes all the impurities while nourishing my skin.
3. Exfoliator.
Here you clean your pores and slough off dead skin cells (fun!). Basically you are removing the old yucky stuff to reveal the new glowy skin.
Don’t do this every day, especially if you have sensitive skin like me. I do this once or twice per week to keep my skin dewey and fresh (an extra welcome change during the cold, dry winter months).
Also, if you remember nothing else, remember that on days you exfoliate you MUST moisturize!!! While you should always moisturize, here is a situation when it is more important than on any other day.
4. Toner.
This little beauty preps your skin to absorb all the moisturizing goodness that follows.
If you are like me, you remember the days of YM and Seventeen magazine where toner was intended to dry up any acne-causing gremlins.
Well friend, in this day and age, now that you are no longer sneaking tampons from your backpack, a good toner helps you absorb moisture into your skin!
I was skeptical about this step at first, but I noticed a difference in my skin in a week after starting it!
5. Essense.
When I first read about this step, I thought “well now they’re just making stuff up.” They are not, in fact, making stuff up.
This step involves a concentrated product that promotes anti-aging and hydrating along with cell turnover (precisely why you should include it after exfoliating).
Hyaluronic acid, which has more name recognition these days ever since that Eva Longoria commercial where she explained how to pronounce it, falls into the essence category.
Side note: this particular product is another one I’ve used for years, and I will forever laugh at the name. Yes, it is disgusting, but there is a certain kind of magic in snail snot that makes my skin epically soft.
6. Treatments.
This step is one that is ultra-customized to your skin type and goals.
Treatments come in the form of serums most commonly, and they are different from essences because they have specific goals to accomplish.
Whether you are trying to combat acne, ease fine lines, or get rid of dark spots, you will find a treatment with concentrated ingredients to specifically target and perfect that skin concern. There are a ton of options, but I tend to use vitamin C because it fights fine lines and boosts collagen production.
7. Sheet Masks.
Here’s the step you likely know the best.
Since I visited Korea several years ago, it is now commonplace for sheet masks to appear at Sephora, drugstores, even TJ Maxx. You can’t really go wrong with any of them, but there are plenty of options for what they are trying to do (hydrate or illuminate, for example).
Personally I haven’t noticed a difference among masks with varying goals - mainly they just moisturize and make my skin extra dewy.
However, let’s get down to brass tacks here, ladies. This step is our collective favorite because it feels so indulgent and like you’re treating yourself to a spa experience. I always recommend taking some of these when you travel to make you feel more relaxed and comfortable in your hotel room.
I also fundamentally believe that this should be a part of every woman’s weekly routine to combat the Sunday Scaries.
8. Eye Cream.
This step is non-negotiable, particularly at night, and I doubt I’ll find an argument about that.
There are so many good eye creams out there, but we all have such individual skin needs that it really is trial and error as to what really works for you.
This is why I subscribed to ipsy. It is a subscription service where you get 5 travel-sized products customized to your preferences every month.
My ipsy profile is set essentially just to skin care and mascara, and I get an opportunity to try tons of different creams, oils, and serums without commitment to see how it works on my skin.
An added bonus is that you will have go to’s to throw into your makeup bag when you travel without having to go to CVS to pick up extra travel-size containers (am I the only one who, without fail, cannot find mine the night before I leave for vacation? I don’t even know where they go - they are the perpetual missing sock after laundry day!)
If you are curious, click here to take your personalized beauty quiz and get 5 travel-sized beauties every month for less than $15 (it’s more fun to find at your front door than an Amazon box)!
9. Moisturizer.
This step is one where there are some nuances. I would divide this further into day and night, then also summer and winter.
Your day formula is lighter (particularly in the summer), and your night formula has ingredients that sink into your skin and work as you sleep (like retinol, for example).
When you are sleeping, your skin is repairing itself and regenerating, so take advantage of that time to aid the process with good-for-your-skin ingredients.
At night, in addition to retinol, I like a rich cream that includes vitamin E. Vitamin E fights against free radicals, and it is more effective when applied with vitamin C (like my favorite serum!) at repairing long-term damage, fighting free radicals, and reducing redness. Together they are more effective than either is on its own.
10. Sunscreen.
REMEMBER THE SAGE WORDS OF MY SAGE DERMATOLOGIST: THE TWO BEST ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS ARE SUNSCREEN AND RETINOL.
This one goes without saying, but you should be wearing sunscreen year-round, even if you aren’t outside for any extended length of time. Not only is it quintessential for preventing skin cancer (I have to make that plug as a fair-skinned Scottish lass with a history of skin cancer in the family), but it is key to preventing premature aging and dark spots!
It’s never to late to get into the habit of daily sunscreen application!
There you have the entire 10-step routine. While I usually only do a few steps daily (and it varies by day), I have noticed a change in my sensitive, dry skin. Plus, skin care has become more like an indulgence/treat than a chore. That is key to sticking with a good skin care regimen, and consistency is key here!
It’s a really lovely thing to inject some luxury and spa-like activities into what is a banal daily routine.
After a few years of following Korean skin guidelines, I am fully bought into the movement. My face feels like a baby’s bottom, and I would be willing to bet you have the same experience. Give it a try and see if you notice any changes!
If you are looking for a robust lineup of Korean skin care brands perfect for your skin type, this is my go-to site! I will warn you that once you start scrolling, it’s hard to stop!
Did I miss any of your favorite products? I am always looking for a new life-changing product - email me your go-to's!
And I can almost guarantee you will adopt sheet masks as a way to combat the Sunday scaries…
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